By angling your board during the take off, you’ll be able to ride along the face of the wave to the right or left. If you don’t angle your board, chances are big you’ll end up riding straight forward instead, surfing the whitewater instead of the unbroken part of the wave.
When you see an incoming wave that you want to catch, start paddling perpendicular to the wave. Being perpendicular to the wave means that the tail of the board is pointing straight towards the wave.
Check which way the wave is breaking, then choose if you should angle left or right for your take off. If the wave is breaking to the left, angle your take off to the left. If it’s breaking to the right, angle your take off to the right.
As you approach the critical moment, with about three paddle strokes remaining, begin angling your board towards the direction you’ve chosen. This is how you angle your board:
Your head and eyes act as your steering wheel, so by looking where you want to go your body will naturally start to align itself in that direction. Begin paddling in a sideways motion by pulling water towards the inside rail and pushing water away from the outside rail.
Visualize a line extending down the face of the wave that represents your desired trajectory, aiming to ride above it. You can imagine the line somewhere in the middle of the face of the wave. When the wave’s shoulder is breaking quickly, aim to draw your line slightly higher than the middle. Conversely, if it’s breaking slowly, opt for a line slightly lower.
Transition into the cobra pose by arching your back. Shift your weight onto the inner rail of the board.
Now that you’re angled, it’s time to take off! This is how you take off:
Pop up onto your feet while keeping your head and chest aligned with your intended direction of travel. If you fail to keep your head and chest still pointing towards where you want to go just for a second or two, you are likely to loose momentum and end up going straight down the wave instead of sideways.
Once in a standing position, put weight over your toes, maintaining forward momentum, and keep your head and chest oriented towards your desired path for a successful ride. Ride above the imaginary line you previously envisioned down the wave.
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