Lesson 6
Surfers around the world know that understanding how to read a surf forecast is the key to picking the right place and time to go surfing. Grasping how to interpret the details in surf forecasts is a must. In this lesson, we’ll dig into the essentials of how to read a surf forecast and introduce you to the best surf forecast app to help you time your surfing sessions just right.
Before we jump into the specifics, let’s start with the fundamentals of what a surf forecast is and why it matters. A surf forecast is essentially a weather report for waves, providing valuable information on upcoming wave conditions. Surf forecasts include data on swell conditions, wind conditions, tides, and more. These factors combined can help you determine when and where to hit the waves. Learn how to read a surf forecast to ensure you don’t end up at the beach when the waves are either disappointingly flat or dangerously large, especially if you’re a beginner.
Determining what is the best surf forecast app can be subjective, as it often depends on individual preferences and needs. However, one of the top surf forecast apps that is highly regarded by surfers is the Surfline app (reports and forecasts are also accessible through their website). In this lesson we will use the Surfline website to demonstrate how to read a surf forecast as a beginner.
One very important thing to note is that every spot is different and will have different requirements on what determines the best surf condition for that specific spot. You will need to do some research to figure out what the best conditions are at the specific spot you want to surf at, and there are different ways to figure this out. What you should look for is:
One way to understand what the best conditions are at a specific surf spot is to visit Surfline’s website and search for the spot in the search bar on the top of the page. In this example we are searching for the spot Muizenberg in South Africa:
Once you have selected a spot, open the Guide tab. In this tab you can find information about the some of the ideal surf conditions at the spot, including ideal swell direction, wind direction, surf height, and tide. This page also includes other useful information, such as general information about the spot, ability levels, crowd, water quality, hazards, bottom, best season, and more:
Unfortunately, not all spots on Surfline’s website have guide information. If you cannot find guide information about a specific spot on Surfline, try other online sites such as wannaSurf, local Facebook surf groups, or ask a local surfer or surf school. You can also go surfing there a few times and read the surf forecast each time to learn what conditions work well and not.
Now that you know the ideal surf conditions for your spot, let’s take a look at how to check if the spot has these conditions in its forecast, starting with tide conditions. Open the Report & Forecast tab and scroll down to the Tides section.
In the chart, when the curve reaches its peak, it signifies high tide. When the curve is at its lowest point, it indicates low tide:
For a different view that also shows information about first light, sunrise, sunset, and last light, click on the “Long Range Tide Forecast” button. This view will then become visible:
In our example, Muizenberg, South Africa, the low tide today is at 4:06am and 5:31pm, and the high tide is at 10:47am and 11:27 pm.
The ideal tide conditions (that we found out in step 1 of this lesson) at this spot are: “When it’s small and clean, low tide offers long, peeling walls that are ideal for longboarding. When it gets bigger, high tide is the go, ideal for inside, shortboard ripping.”
We have not yet checked whether the conditions today are small or big, so let’s do that next.
Swell conditions are a critical component of a surf forecast, and they refer to the characteristics of ocean waves that determine the quality and size of surf. Some of the key elements of swell conditions in a surf forecast include swell size, swell period, and swell direction.
To check the swell conditions on the Surfline website, open the Report & Forecast tab and scroll down to the Surf Forecast section. Under “Primary Swell” you can see the swell size, followed by the swell time, and lastly the swell direction
In our example, Muizenberg, South Africa, the swell height is around 1 meter (3ft), the swell period is 9 seconds, and the swell direction is SSE. These can be considered small conditions.
The ideal swell conditions (that we found out in step 1 of this lesson) at this spot are: “Swell direction = SW, S, E”. And as we learned when looking at ideal swell heights for beginners, the ideal swell height is around 1 meter (3ft). What we learned about the swell period is that a good swell period is generally speaking 8+ seconds. Based on this information, today’s swell conditions at Muizenberg beach are ideal for beginners.
Wind is a very important factor in surfing. Offshore wind is generally considered the most favorable wind condition for surfing. Offshore wind creates clean, organized, and often hollow waves, providing ideal conditions for smooth and enjoyable rides. Onshore wind on the other hand leads to messy, wind-blown waves with reduced ride quality, making it challenging for surfers to control their boards and ride effectively.
In general, light to moderate offshore winds in the range of 8 to 24 kilometers per hour (5 to 15 miles per hour) are often considered ideal for most surfers. However, it’s important to note that the best wind speed can vary depending on the specific surf spot and local conditions.
To check the wind conditions on the Surfline website, open the Report & Forecast tab and scroll down to the Surf Forecast section. Under “Wind” you can see the wind speed, followed by the wind direction.
In our example, Muizenberg, South Africa, the wind speed is between 3 to 21 kilometers per hour today, and the wind direction switches between S and NW.
The ideal wind conditions (that we found out in step 1 of this lesson) at this spot are: “Wind direction = NW, SW”. And as we learned when looking at ideal wind speed for, generally speaking the recommended wind speed is 8 to 24 kilometers per hour (5 to 15 miles per hour). Based on this information, today’s wind conditions are ideal from 3pm onwards (but still fairly good earlier in the day as well).
Here’s a summarized checklist of how to read a surf forecast as a beginner surfer.
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